Ilhabela

Ilhabela — "Beautiful Island" in Portuguese — is one of those rare places that lives up to its name without qualification. This mountainous island off the northern coast of Sao Paulo state is the largest in a tropical archipelago of twelve, its jungle-covered peaks rising to over 1,300 metres from a coastline of more than forty beaches. Declared a UNESCO Atlantic Forest Biosphere Reserve, Ilhabela is approximately eighty percent preserved wilderness, its interior a tangled canopy of bromeliads, tree ferns, orchids, and the towering pau-brasil trees that gave Brazil its name.

The channel between Ilhabela and the mainland is one of the most celebrated sailing waters in South America. Steady winds, sheltered anchorages, and a stunning mountain backdrop have made it the yachting capital of Brazil. The island's main town, Vila, clusters along the western shore, its cobblestoned streets lined with colonial-era buildings, art galleries, and restaurants that cater to the Sao Paulo elite who have long used Ilhabela as their weekend escape.

The culinary scene on Ilhabela draws from both the island's fishing heritage and the sophisticated tastes of its Paulista visitors. Fresh-caught robalo, lula, and camarao appear in preparations that range from the simple to the elaborate. Pastel de camarao, a deep-fried pastry stuffed with seasoned shrimp, is the beach snack of choice. The island's restaurants increasingly showcase farm-to-table cuisine using produce from the mainland's Atlantic Forest region.

The beaches of Ilhabela are the island's primary draw. The Praia do Curral and Praia da Feiticeira on the western shore offer calm, clear swimming. The eastern coast, facing the open Atlantic, is wilder: Praia de Castelhanos, a sweeping crescent of golden sand backed by dense jungle, is regularly voted one of Brazil's most beautiful beaches. Hikers can follow trails to waterfalls — the Cachoeira do Gato, a forty-metre cascade plunging into a natural pool, is the most spectacular. For divers, the waters contain over a dozen shipwrecks.

Ilhabela is a port of call for Azamara, Costa Cruises, MSC Cruises, Scenic Ocean Cruises, and Silversea on their South American coastal itineraries. Ships anchor in the Sao Sebastiao Channel and tender passengers to the Vila waterfront. The best time to visit is April through November, when the drier weather makes hiking comfortable and the seas are calm enough for excellent diving visibility.