
Canada
9 voyages
In the heart of the Canadian Rockies, where the Bow River carves through a valley flanked by peaks of such dramatic symmetry that they seem designed rather than evolved, the town of Banff has been drawing travellers to one of the world's great mountain landscapes since the Canadian Pacific Railway reached here in 1883. Banff National Park — Canada's first, established in 1885 — protects 6,641 square kilometres of Rocky Mountain wilderness that is among the most photographed, most hiked, and most genuinely magnificent on Earth.
The character of Banff is defined by the extraordinary accessibility of world-class mountain scenery. From the town's main street — Banff Avenue — the views in every direction are of the kind that most destinations reserve for their most remote hiking trails. Cascade Mountain rises directly above the town in a near-perfect pyramid. The Banff Springs Hotel, a Scottish baronial castle built by the railway in 1888, occupies a promontory above the confluence of the Bow and Spray rivers with the theatrical confidence of a film set.
The landscape surrounding Banff offers experiences at every level of commitment. The Banff Gondola lifts visitors to the summit of Sulphur Mountain in eight minutes, providing panoramic views of six mountain ranges that would otherwise require hours of hiking. Lake Louise — a forty-minute drive north — presents one of the most recognised views in the world: turquoise glacial water backed by the Victoria Glacier, framed by forested slopes that turn gold in September. Moraine Lake, in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, is equally stunning and arguably less photographically exhausted.
The wildlife of Banff National Park is impressive and occasionally too close for comfort. Elk graze on the town's lawns and golf courses with an insouciance that belies their size and seasonal aggression. Grizzly and black bears inhabit the valley bottoms and alpine meadows — Parks Canada's sophisticated wildlife management programme ensures that human-bear encounters are minimised while maintaining healthy populations. Mountain goats and bighorn sheep navigate the cliff faces above the highway with a nonchalance that makes driving through the park a continuous wildlife spectacle.
Banff is accessible by road from Calgary (approximately ninety minutes) and by scheduled airport shuttles. The Trans-Canada Highway passes through the park, and the town is served by the Rocky Mountaineer and VIA Rail scenic train services. The best time to visit depends on activities: summer (June to September) offers hiking and warm weather; winter (November to April) brings world-class skiing at three resorts within the park. The fall larch season (late September) turns the alpine forests golden in a display that draws photographers from around the world.
