South Plaza Island

South Plaza Island is the smallest landing site in the Galapagos that delivers the biggest visual impact per square metre. This tilted volcanic islet, barely 130 metres wide and less than a kilometre long, rises from the sea on its southern side in rust-red cliffs where swallow-tailed gulls — the world's only nocturnal gull — nest in the crevices, while its northern shore slopes gently into a turquoise channel where sea lions body-surf through the shallows. The island's surface is carpeted in Sesuvium — a succulent groundcover plant that transforms from green to brilliant red during the dry season, creating a colour contrast against the blue sea and sky that photographers find almost unfairly cooperative.

The land iguana population of South Plaza is one of the most accessible in the Galapagos. These heavy-bodied, golden-yellow reptiles — distinct from the black marine iguanas found elsewhere in the archipelago — feed on the prickly pear cacti (Opuntia) that dot the island, waiting beneath the plants for pads or fruit to fall. The sight of a land iguana consuming a cactus pad, spines and all, its jaw working methodically through the tough, moisture-rich flesh, is a memorable demonstration of adaptive eating. South Plaza also harbours a population of hybrid iguanas — crosses between the land and marine species that display characteristics of both parents — a naturally occurring phenomenon that provides a real-time illustration of the evolutionary processes that made the Galapagos famous.

The cliff walk along South Plaza's southern edge is one of the most dramatic short hikes in the archipelago. A trail climbs from the landing site to the clifftop, where red-billed tropicbirds — elegant, long-tailed seabirds — swoop along the cliff face on their way to and from fishing grounds. The view from the highest point encompasses the channel between South and North Plaza, often dotted with the dark shapes of marine iguanas swimming between the islands, and the larger bulk of Santa Cruz Island rising to the west. Nazca boobies and frigatebirds patrol the cliffs, while below, the surge channels cut into the volcanic rock provide a natural arena for the bachelor sea lions — males that have lost their territorial battles and been exiled from the breeding colonies — who haul out on the lower ledges in companionable groups of the dispossessed.

The snorkelling opportunity along South Plaza's northern shore is excellent when conditions permit. The channel between the two Plaza islands is frequented by sea lions, marine iguanas, sea turtles, and the schools of tropical fish that find shelter in the rocky shallows. The visibility is typically good, and the combination of topside wildlife viewing and underwater exploration makes South Plaza one of the most efficient wildlife experiences in the Galapagos — an extraordinary amount of natural drama compressed into a visit that typically lasts only two hours.

South Plaza Island is visited by Celebrity Cruises on Galapagos itineraries, with dry landings from Zodiac onto a small dock. As with all Galapagos sites, visits are managed by the National Park with certified naturalist guides. The dry season from June through November brings the most dramatic Sesuvium colour change and the most active marine life, while the warm season from December through May offers calmer seas and warmer water for snorkelling.