Indonesia
In the waters north of Sumbawa, where the Flores Sea stretches toward Sulawesi across some of the richest marine habitat in the Coral Triangle, Moyo Island rises as a protected nature reserve of extraordinary beauty that remains almost completely undeveloped. The Indonesian government designated the island a nature reserve in 1986, and the resulting protection has preserved ecosystems—both terrestrial and marine—in a condition that approaches the pristine. The island gained international attention when the late Princess Diana chose it as a retreat in the 1990s, lending a touch of glamour to a destination that otherwise exists in magnificent obscurity.
The character of Moyo Island is defined by the contrast between its rugged, forested interior and the coral-fringed coastline that encircles it. The interior rises to over 600 meters through monsoon forest inhabited by wild boar, macaques, barking deer, and approximately 80 species of birds including the yellow-crested cockatoo—a species critically endangered across much of its range but thriving in Moyo's protected forest. The Mata Jitu waterfall, cascading into a series of turquoise pools through the forest interior, provides one of the most spectacular freshwater swimming experiences in the Indonesian archipelago—the water temperature is bracingly cool, a welcome contrast to the tropical heat.
The marine environment surrounding Moyo Island ranks among the finest in the Lesser Sunda Islands. The coral reefs that fringe the island support over 200 species of hard coral and abundant reef fish, with the southern and western coasts offering the best snorkeling and diving conditions. Manta rays visit the island's cleaning stations, where smaller fish rid them of parasites in an interspecies relationship that divers can observe at close range. Sea turtles—both green and hawksbill species—nest on the island's beaches, and the deeper waters beyond the reef attract occasional whale sharks during the plankton-rich wet season.
The sole luxury accommodation on Moyo Island—Amanwana, an Aman resort consisting of elegant tented pavilions set among the trees of the coastal forest—provides a wilderness experience calibrated to the highest standards of comfort. Guests arrive by speedboat from Sumbawa to a jetty where the forest meets the sea, and the resort's activities center on the natural environment: diving and snorkeling excursions, guided nature treks to the waterfall, fishing trips in traditional boats, and sunset kayaking along the mangrove-fringed coastline. The dining draws on both the sea and the resort's organic garden, producing meals that combine Indonesian flavors with international culinary techniques.
Moyo Island is reached by speedboat from the town of Sumbawa Besar on the northern coast of Sumbawa (approximately one hour). Independent visitors require a permit from the natural reserve authority, and facilities outside the resort are nonexistent. The driest months from May through October offer the best conditions for both diving and trekking, with September and October providing the calmest seas and best underwater visibility. The wet season from November through April brings occasional heavy rainfall but also lusher vegetation and the chance of whale shark encounters in the surrounding waters.