Pare Pare

On the western coast of South Sulawesi, the port city of Parepare (also written Pare-Pare) occupies a crescentshaped bay backed by forested hills — a trading centre that has connected the seafaring cultures of eastern Indonesia for centuries. Less visited than Makassar to the south, Parepare offers an authentic encounter with Bugis culture — the great maritime civilisation of Sulawesi whose seafaring prowess and commercial networks once dominated trade routes from the Malay Peninsula to the northern coast of Australia.

The character of Parepare is shaped by its Bugis heritage. The Bugis are among the most accomplished seafarers in history, their pinisi sailing vessels — elegant wooden schooners built without blueprints using techniques passed down through generations — still plying the waters of the Indonesian archipelago carrying cargo under canvas. The tradition of boat building continues in yards along the coast south of Parepare, where craftsmen shape tropical hardwoods into hulls of remarkable beauty using hand tools and an accumulated wisdom that no naval architecture degree can replicate.

The town's most notable modern connection is as the birthplace of B.J. Habibie, Indonesia's third president and the country's leading aeronautical engineer, whose childhood home has been preserved as a museum. Beyond this, the waterfront promenade offers views across the bay to distant islands, while the central market — a cacophonous, fragrant experience — provides an immersion in the daily commerce of South Sulawesi life.

The cuisine of Parepare is South Sulawesi cooking at its most vibrant. Coto Makassar — a rich beef soup flavoured with a complex spice paste that includes peanuts, coriander, cumin, and galangal — is the region's most celebrated dish. Ikan bakar (grilled fish), marinated in turmeric, chilli, and lime, arrives at the table on banana leaves with sambal and fresh vegetables. Pisang epe — grilled banana pressed flat and served with palm sugar sauce — is the irresistible street dessert that appears at every evening market.

Parepare is accessible by air via the nearest airport at Makassar (approximately three hours by road) or by overnight ferry from the Kalimantan port of Balikpapan. Expedition cruise ships visiting eastern Indonesia occasionally call at the port. The best time to visit is during the dry season from May to October, when seas are calmest and outdoor activities most comfortable. The annual festival celebrating Bugis maritime heritage features traditional boat races and cultural performances that bring the waterfront to life.