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  4. Kumano, Japan

Japan

Kumano, Japan

The Kumano region of Japan's Kii Peninsula, facing the Pacific Ocean in southern Mie and Wakayama prefectures, has been a place of pilgrimage for over a thousand years — a mountainous, heavily forested landscape where Shinto shrines, Buddhist temples, and ancient paths coexist in a synthesis of spiritual traditions unique to Japan. The Kumano Sanzan — three grand shrines connected by the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes — was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004, placing these paths among the only pilgrimage routes in the world to receive such recognition alongside the Camino de Santiago in Spain.

Kumano Nachi Taisha, the most dramatically sited of the three grand shrines, stands on a mountainside overlooking the Nachi Falls — at 133 metres the tallest single-drop waterfall in Japan, its thin white cascade descending through a frame of virgin forest that has been sacred since long before Buddhism or organised Shinto arrived in the region. The three-storey pagoda positioned to frame the waterfall is one of the most reproduced images in Japanese tourism, yet no photograph captures the experience of standing before the falls in person — the roar of water, the mist on the face, and the sense of being in a place where the natural and the divine are not separated but identical. The Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha, the other two shrines of the Kumano Sanzan, are equally ancient and atmospherically distinct — Hongu occupying a mountain clearing deep in the forest, Hayatama positioned at the mouth of the Kumano River where the mountains meet the sea.

The Kumano Kodo trails themselves are the primary experience for visitors. The most popular section, the Nakahechi route, winds through cedar forests, past tea houses that have served pilgrims for centuries, and over mountain passes where the views extend across an unbroken canopy of green to the Pacific. Unlike the Camino de Santiago's relatively flat Meseta, the Kumano Kodo is a mountain trail — steep, occasionally demanding, and rewarded at regular intervals by the Oji (subsidiary shrines) that mark the sacred geography of the route. The forest is dense enough to create a permanent twilight on the trail — shafts of sunlight penetrate the cedar canopy in columns of gold, illuminating moss-covered stone steps and the small stone Jizo statues that protect travellers.

The cuisine of the Kumano region draws from both mountain and sea. Mehari-zushi — rice balls wrapped in pickled mustard leaves, a portable food originally designed for pilgrims — is the region's signature snack. Sanma (Pacific saury), grilled whole and served with grated daikon and soy sauce, is the quintessential autumn dish of the Kumano coast. The local speciality of whale meat, while controversial internationally, has been consumed in the Kumano fishing communities for centuries and remains available at traditional restaurants in Taiji and Katsuura. Kumano's hot springs — particularly those at Yunomine Onsen, one of Japan's oldest documented spa villages and itself a UNESCO World Heritage component — offer the post-hike soaking that transforms a pilgrimage from an endurance test into a transcendent physical experience.

Kumano is visited by Princess Cruises on Japanese coastal itineraries, with ships calling at the port of Shingu near Kumano Hayatama Taisha. The ideal visiting seasons are spring (April through May) and autumn (October through November), when the temperatures are comfortable for walking and the forests display their finest seasonal colours — cherry blossoms in spring, and the flaming maples of koyo in autumn.