Uwajima

Nestled at the head of a sheltered bay on the western coast of Shikoku, Japan's least explored major island, Uwajima is a castle town of quiet distinction that has been shaping the cultural landscape of the Nanyo region for over four centuries. The Date clan — a branch of the same family that built Sendai — governed Uwajima from 1614, establishing traditions of scholarship, craftsmanship, and martial arts that continue to define the city's character. With its original Edo-period castle, legendary bullfighting tradition, and some of Shikoku's finest seafood, Uwajima offers cruise visitors a window into a Japan that exists beyond the well-worn tourist circuits.

Uwajima Castle is the city's crowning glory — one of only twelve original castles surviving in Japan, its compact three-story tenshu (main keep) perching atop a wooded hilltop that commands views across the bay and surrounding mountains. Unlike the concrete reconstructions found in most Japanese cities, Uwajima's castle is the genuine article: wooden beams, steep staircases, and defensive features that have stood since 1666. The climb through the castle's wooded grounds, past stone walls and moss-covered guardhouses, is itself a journey through time. At the summit, the keep's intimate scale and the views from its upper gallery create a sense of connection to the feudal past that larger, more famous castles rarely achieve.

Uwajima's most distinctive cultural tradition is togyu — bull sumo, a form of bullfighting in which two bulls lock horns and push against each other until one retreats, with no human combatants and no harm to the animals. This tradition dates back at least to the early eighteenth century and is practiced in a dedicated circular arena that hosts tournaments five times a year. The spectacle is both dramatic and surprisingly tender — the bulls are treated with great care by their handlers, and the crowd's enthusiasm reflects genuine affection for the animals as much as competitive spirit. The Uwajima togyu is designated as a national intangible folk cultural property, a recognition of its deep roots in local identity.

The culinary scene in Uwajima revolves around the extraordinary bounty of the Uwa Sea. Tai-meshi, or sea bream rice, is the city's signature dish, and it comes in two distinct versions: the Uwajima style, in which raw sea bream sashimi is served over rice with a raw egg and special dashi sauce, and the more common grilled version found elsewhere in Ehime Prefecture. The Uwajima version is a revelation — silky, rich, and profoundly umami. Pearl oysters, cultivated in the same waters that produce some of Japan's finest Akoya pearls, are another local delicacy, along with jakoten (fried fish paste cakes) and the citrus fruits — particularly mikan oranges — for which Ehime is celebrated throughout Japan.

Uwajima's port, situated in the sheltered bay, can accommodate small to mid-sized cruise vessels. The castle and city center are within walking distance of the waterfront, making independent exploration straightforward. The climate is mild, influenced by the Kuroshio Current, with comfortable temperatures for sightseeing throughout much of the year — spring cherry blossoms (late March-April) and autumn foliage (November) are particularly beautiful. The city serves as a gateway to the broader Shikoku pilgrimage route, with several of the 88 Temples located nearby. Uwajima embodies the unhurried authenticity that makes Shikoku perhaps Japan's most rewarding island for discerning travelers.