Kiribati
In the northern reaches of the Republic of Kiribati, the atoll of Butaritari is a Pacific anomaly — an island of unusual rainfall, lush vegetation, and agricultural abundance in an ocean nation where most atolls struggle with drought and thin, infertile soils. Known historically as Makin (the name still used for its northern islet), Butaritari achieved grim fame during World War II when the US Marines' raid on Makin Atoll in 1942, and the subsequent battle of 1943, marked some of the fiercest fighting in the Central Pacific campaign.
The character of Butaritari is shaped by its exceptional fertility. Unlike most Kiribati atolls, Butaritari receives sufficient rainfall to support breadfruit groves, banana plantations, and taro pits that produce food in quantities unknown on the drier atolls to the south. Coconut palms grow with particular vigour, and the island's copra (dried coconut meat) has long been its primary cash crop. The resulting landscape is almost junglelike — a striking contrast to the sparse, wind-blown vegetation typical of Pacific atolls.
The WWII history of Butaritari is written into the landscape. Japanese concrete bunkers, partially overgrown by tropical vegetation, dot the shoreline. The wreckage of landing craft lies in the shallow lagoon. Shell craters, now softened by decades of coral sand, mark the beach where the Marines came ashore. A simple memorial near the main village honours the fallen from both sides — a reminder that this peaceful atoll was, for a few violent days, the focus of global military attention.
The lagoon of Butaritari is one of the largest and most sheltered in Kiribati, providing excellent conditions for swimming, kayaking, and snorkelling. The reef passes attract pelagic fish — tuna, barracuda, and reef sharks — while the inner lagoon supports healthy coral formations and the calm, warm waters that make Pacific atolls such appealing swimming environments. Traditional outrigger canoe sailing, a skill that I-Kiribati mariners have practised for millennia, can sometimes be observed and occasionally joined.
Butaritari is accessible by inter-island flights from Tarawa, Kiribati's capital (approximately one hour), or by the inter-island ferry service that connects the Gilbert Islands chain. Accommodation is limited to basic guesthouses. The climate is tropical year-round, with the driest conditions from June to October. Visitors should bring cash (there are no ATMs), sun protection, and a willingness to embrace a pace of life governed by tide, light, and the deeply communal social structure of Kiribati village life.