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  4. Southeast Alaska's Islands, Bays and Fjords

United States

Southeast Alaska's Islands, Bays and Fjords

Southeast Alaska is not a single destination but an archipelago of over a thousand islands, a labyrinth of glacier-carved fjords, and a coastline so convoluted that if straightened, it would stretch halfway around the world. This is the Alaska Panhandle — a narrow strip of temperate rainforest, tidewater glaciers, and indigenous Tlingit and Haida homeland that hangs from the state's southeastern corner like a verdant tail. The Inside Passage, the protected waterway that threads between the islands and the mainland, has been a highway for indigenous peoples for ten thousand years and remains one of the world's great maritime corridors.

The landscape of Southeast Alaska operates on a scale that overwhelms human comprehension. Tongass National Forest, the largest national forest in the United States at 6.9 million hectares, blankets the islands and mainland in a cathedral of Sitka spruce, western hemlock, and western red cedar so tall and dense that the forest floor exists in perpetual twilight. Glaciers — thousands of them — descend from the Juneau Icefield and the St. Elias Mountains to meet the sea in walls of blue ice that calve with thunderous regularity. Tracy Arm Fjord, Endicott Arm, and Glacier Bay are the most celebrated of these ice-carved corridors, each offering the spectacle of tidewater glaciers in settings of near-vertical rock and primeval forest.

Wildlife in Southeast Alaska is as abundant as the landscape is vast. Humpback whales breach and bubble-net feed in the nutrient-rich waters of the Inside Passage, their explosive exhalations audible across the still fjords. Brown bears fish for salmon along the rivers and streams that cascade from the mountains, while bald eagles — thousands of them, the highest concentration in North America — perch in the spruce canopy and soar above the channels. Orcas patrol the deeper passages, Steller sea lions haul out on rocky islets, and all five species of Pacific salmon return to their natal streams each summer in runs so dense they darken the water.

The indigenous cultures of Southeast Alaska — Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian — have inhabited these islands for millennia, and their artistic traditions rank among the most sophisticated of any indigenous culture in the Americas. Totem poles, the monumental carved cedar columns that serve as family crests, historical records, and spiritual markers, stand in forest clearings and village centers throughout the region. The Totem Heritage Center in Ketchikan and the Sitka National Historical Park preserve some of the finest examples, while contemporary Tlingit and Haida artists continue to create in both traditional and modern forms.

Lindblad Expeditions brings its fleet of expedition vessels to Southeast Alaska, offering naturalist-guided zodiac excursions, kayaking through ice-strewn fjords, and cultural encounters with indigenous communities. The Inside Passage's sheltered waters make it accessible to vessels of all sizes, though smaller ships can navigate the narrowest channels and anchor in bays inaccessible to larger vessels. The season runs from May through September, with June and July offering the longest days and the arrival of humpback whales, while August and September bring the peak salmon runs and the first dusting of snow on the mountaintops.