Alaska Inside Passage

Pressed between the Pacific and the Coast Mountains, Vancouver is the natural gateway to Alaska's Inside Passage — a city where temperate rainforest meets glass towers and where Dungeness crab and wild sockeye salmon define a Pacific Rim cuisine that rivals any in North America. Walk the 22-kilometre Stanley Park seawall, lose yourself in the Granville Island market, then ferry across to Victoria's Edwardian splendour. Alaska cruise season peaks from May through September, making Vancouver an ideal starting point for one of the world's great ocean journeys.

America's only state capital unreachable by road, Juneau rewards the journey with a wilderness grandeur that few cities on earth can match. The Mendenhall Glacier — a living river of ancient ice — lies just fifteen minutes from downtown, where floatplanes dart above a waterfront flanked by spruce-draped mountains plunging straight into the sea. The must-do experience is a helicopter landing atop the icefield or a whale-watching excursion in Stephens Passage, where humpbacks breach in astonishing proximity. Juneau is warmest from June to August, though even summer days can bring the famous Southeast Alaska rain that keeps the rainforest perpetually luminous.

Skagway, perched at the northern tip of the Lynn Canal in Alaska, is the gold rush boomtown that time has preserved almost perfectly — a frontier main street of false-fronted saloons and Victorian storefronts now protected as a National Historic Park. The legendary White Pass & Yukon Route railway, completed in 1900 to supply the Klondike goldfields, still climbs the vertiginous pass in vintage carriages, offering some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in North America. Glacier trekking and helicopter tours over the Juneau Icefield await the more adventurous. May through September brings long Arctic days and the most reliable access.

Glacier Bay National Park is one of the most profound landscapes of active glaciation on Earth — 3.3 million acres of southeastern Alaska where tidewater glaciers calve cathedral-sized icebergs into fjords of luminous blue water, and where the land itself is still rising, liberated from the weight of ice that buried this entire region just two centuries ago. The park, reachable only by ship or small aircraft, rewards visitors with wildlife encounters — humpback whales, brown bears, sea otters, and mountain goats — set against scenery of almost overwhelming grandeur. The season runs May through September; late June and July offer the longest days and most reliable wildlife activity.

Ketchikan clings to the forested shore of Revillagigedo Island in Alaska's southeastern panhandle — a town so narrow that locals joke it is three miles long and three blocks wide. Revered by the Tlingit people for millennia as a place of abundant salmon, it is today celebrated as the Totem Pole Capital of the World: the collections at Saxman Native Village and Totem Bight State Historical Park preserve the most significant concentration of these monumental artworks anywhere. Creek Street, a boardwalk of colorful historic houses built over Ketchikan Creek, should not be missed. Summer (May–September) brings the best weather, with salmon running in the creeks below.

Pressed between the Pacific and the Coast Mountains, Vancouver is the natural gateway to Alaska's Inside Passage — a city where temperate rainforest meets glass towers and where Dungeness crab and wild sockeye salmon define a Pacific Rim cuisine that rivals any in North America. Walk the 22-kilometre Stanley Park seawall, lose yourself in the Granville Island market, then ferry across to Victoria's Edwardian splendour. Alaska cruise season peaks from May through September, making Vancouver an ideal starting point for one of the world's great ocean journeys.