פרייבורג

פרייבורג אימברייסגאו היא העיר השמשית ביותר בגרמניה — ואחת מהירוקות ביותר, הן במובן הסביבתי והן במובן האסתטי. ממוקמת בקצה המערבי של יער השחור, שם מישור הריין פוגש את מדרונות השווארצוואלד, פרייבורג שילבה את המורשת הארכיטקטונית שלה מהתקופה medieval עם מחויבות לחיים ברי קיימא שהפכה אותה לעיר מודל עבור אורבניזם סביבתי ברחבי העולם. אזור ואובן, שהיה בעבר בסיס צבאי שהוסב לשכונה ללא רכבים, המופעלת על ידי אנרגיה סולארית, ורשת החשמליות הנרחבת של העיר ותשתית האופניים שלה העניקו לפרייבורג הכרה כאחת הערים הנוחות ביותר למגורים באירופה — הבחנה שמשלימה ולא סותרת את 900 שנות ההיסטוריה שלה.

המונסטר, קתדרלת החול האדום של פרייבורג, היא אחת הכנסיות הגותיות היפות ביותר בגרמניה — מגדליה בגובה 116 מטרים, אשר תיאר ההיסטוריון האמנות השווייצרי יעקב בורקהרדט כ"המגדל היפה ביותר בנצרות," מתנשא מעל כיכר המונסטרפלאץ בהרכב שהגדיר את קו הרקיע של העיר מאז סיום בניית המגדל בשנת 1330. חלונות הויטראז'ים, רבים מהם מתוארכים למאה ה-13 וה-14, כוללים סדרה המתארת את המקצועות והגילדות של ימי הביניים שהממנו את בניית הקתדרלה — אופים, סנדלרים וכורים, המוצגים בצבעים זוהרים שהופכים את הספינה לגלריה של ההיסטוריה החברתית של ימי הביניים. השוק היומי בבסיס המונסטר, הפועל בכל בוקר למעט יום ראשון, מציע תוצרת מקומית, פרחים, ואת הלנגה רוטה — הנקניק האדום הארוך הנצלה במקום ומוגש בלחמנייה פריכה — המהווה את האוכל הרחוב האהוב ביותר של פרייבורג.

היער השחור, המתחיל בפתח המזרחי של פרייבורג, הוא אחד הנופים האטמוספריים ביותר באירופה — מרחב הררי של יערות אשוח ואורן כהים, עמקי נהרות, ובתי חווה מסורתיים עם קירות חצי עץ, אשר גגותיהם הגדולים, שנועדו להשליך שלג כבד, מגדירים את הוורנאקולר האדריכלי של האזור. הר שאוינסלנד, הנגיש ברכבל מהפרברים הדרומיים, מציע נופים פנורמיים על פני מישורי הריין עד הרי הווז' בצרפת, ובימים בהירים, עד הרי האלפים השווייצריים. הולי טל (עמק הגיהנום), קניון דרמטי שנחצב על ידי נהר הדרייסאם דרך מסה של היער השחור, מתחיל מזרחית לעיר ומוביל לטיטיזי — אגם קרחוני whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose whose 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whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose 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whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose whose whose whose whosewhose

הקולינריה של פרייבורג ויער השחור היא לבבית, מעושנת בעשן עץ, ומספקת תחושת סיפוק עמוקה. שוורצוואלדר שינקן (Schwarzwalder Schinken), המיוצר בעישון על אש אשוח ואורן בשיטה המסורתית, הוא היצוא המפורסם ביותר של האזור. שוורצוואלדר קירשטורטה (Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte), הקינוח של שוקולד-דובדבן-שמנת שהותאם ברחבי העולם, מוצא את הביטוי האותנטי ביותר שלו בפאטיסרי של פרייבורג, שם הקירש המקומי (ברנדי דובדבן) ושמנת יער השחור מספקים את המרכיבים האמיתיים. היינות של קייזרסטול, גבעה געשית בשפך הריין המייצרת כמה מהספאטבורגונדר (Spatburgunder) והגרויבורגונדר (Grauburgunder) הטובים ביותר של באדן, מוגשים בוויינשטובן (Weinstuben), טברנות היין שמפוזרות ברחובות העיר העתיקה.

פרייבורג משרתת את מסעות הקרוזים של Emerald Cruises במסלולי נהר הריין, כטיול יוצא מבייסאך. עונת הביקור הנעימה ביותר היא מאי עד אוקטובר, כאשר שוק המיניסטר הוא בשיאו בקיץ ויער השחור נמצא באווירה המיוחדת ביותר בעונת הערפל של הסתיו, כאשר העמקים מתמלאים בערפל והפסגות ההרריות צצות מעל שכבת העננים כמו איים בים לבן.