Kampong Saom
Before the casino towers and Chinese investment transformed its skyline in the late 2010s, Sihanoukville — officially Preah Sihanouk, formerly Kampong Saom — was Cambodia's sleepy beach escape, a place where backpackers lounged on powdery white sand and fishermen mended nets in the shade of casuarina trees. Named after King Norodom Sihanouk, who oversaw the construction of Cambodia's only deep-water port here in the 1950s, the city occupies a series of headlands and bays along the Gulf of Thailand that remain, despite rapid development, among the most naturally beautiful stretches of coastline in mainland Southeast Asia.
The city's character is in flux, but its beaches endure. Otres Beach, the longest and most relaxed, stretches for several kilometres of fine white sand backed by palm groves, its southern end still preserving the bohemian tranquility that once defined the entire coast. Sokha Beach, fronting the grand resort of the same name, offers manicured sand and calm swimming waters. Independence Beach, named after the Independence Hotel — a 1960s modernist landmark that has been restored to its former elegance — provides a more intimate setting with views across the harbour to the offshore islands.
Those islands are Sihanoukville's greatest treasure. The Koh Rong archipelago, reached by speedboat in thirty to forty-five minutes, comprises some of Cambodia's most pristine marine environments. Koh Rong itself offers bioluminescent plankton that illuminates the shallows with an ethereal blue glow on moonless nights — a natural phenomenon that ranks among Southeast Asia's most magical experiences. Koh Rong Samloem, smaller and less developed, features the idyllic Saracen Bay and jungle hiking to hidden waterfalls. Koh Thmei and Koh Ta Kiev offer snorkelling among healthy coral reefs and the kind of castaway solitude that is increasingly difficult to find in the region.
Cambodian cuisine, often overshadowed by its Thai and Vietnamese neighbours, deserves celebration. Fish amok — a fragrant curry steamed in banana leaves — is the national dish, and Sihanoukville's seaside restaurants serve it alongside grilled squid, pepper crab from the nearby Kampot region, and noodle soups that draw from both Khmer and Chinese traditions. The Phsar Leu market in the city centre provides an immersive introduction to local ingredients — tropical fruits, dried fish, fermented pastes — and the emerging restaurant scene along Otres Beach brings increasing sophistication to these traditions.
Sihanoukville's port handles cruise ships at the deep-water terminal, with the city centre and beaches a short drive away. The best visiting season runs from November through April, when the dry monsoon brings clear skies and calm seas ideal for island-hopping. The wet season (May-October) brings dramatic afternoon storms but fewer crowds and lush green landscapes. Despite its rapid changes, Sihanoukville retains its essential appeal — a gateway to islands and waters of extraordinary beauty in a country whose warmth and resilience never fail to move visitors.