Danube Dreams (Eastbound)

Arles, the most important city in Roman Gaul after Lyon, wears its history with casual magnificence: a first-century amphitheatre still hosts bullfights beneath open skies, and the haunting Alyscamps necropolis — once among the most prestigious burial grounds in the Western world — lines a poplar-shaded avenue with ancient sarcophagi. Yet Arles is equally celebrated as the city that intoxicated Vincent van Gogh, who produced over three hundred works here in fifteen fevered months; the Fondation Vincent van Gogh now honors his legacy in beautifully renovated rooms. Spring and autumn are ideal, with the Camargue's flamingo-filled wetlands just minutes south. Lyon is two hours north by TGV.

Breisach am Rhein clings to a volcanic hilltop at the French-German border, commanding the Upper Rhine crossing that made it one of the most fought-over towns in European history — a past the Romanesque-Gothic Münster St. Stephan surveys serenely from its commanding heights. Today peace reigns, and Breisach's true gift is its position as a gateway to three celebrated wine regions: the German Kaiserstuhl, producing some of Germany's finest Spätburgunder; the French Alsace, just across the Rhine; and the rolling hills of the Baden wine country to the east. Visit in autumn for harvest season across all three regions simultaneously. Freiburg im Breisgau, the Black Forest's graceful capital, lies twenty minutes east.

Avignon's Palais des Papes — a fortress-palace of staggering medieval ambition where seven successive popes held court for seventy years — still dominates this Provençal city's skyline, its limestone bulk enclosing frescoed chapels and vast ceremonial halls that once shaped the destiny of Christendom. In July, the city transforms for the celebrated Festival d'Avignon, Europe's premier theatre gathering, turning every courtyard and cloister into a stage. Year-round, the beautifully preserved historic centre offers world-class Rhône Valley wines, refined Provençal cuisine, and the beguiling spectacle of the Pont Saint-Bénézet stretching halfway across the river. Lyon and Marseille are each accessible in under ninety minutes by TGV.

Mainz is where the modern world was printed into existence: Johannes Gutenberg's invention of movable-type printing around 1440 transformed this ancient Rhine city into the birthplace of the information age, a legacy honoured at the extraordinary Gutenberg Museum, home to one of the surviving original Bibles. The Romanesque cathedral of St. Martin, built over a millennium from the year 975, anchors a charming old town of wine taverns and market squares where Rhenish Rieslings flow freely. Visit between spring and autumn for the famous Mainz Wine Market held beside the Rhine. A day-cruise port with surprising cultural depth.

Viviers is one of France's most beautifully preserved medieval secrets — a cathedral town of barely four thousand souls perched on a limestone spur above the Rhône, serving as an episcopal seat since the fifth century when its bishops chose this formidable rock over the declining Roman city below. The Romanesque bell tower, vaulted passageways, and Renaissance townhouses of the haute ville form an ensemble of extraordinary architectural coherence, virtually unaltered since the seventeenth century. River cruise guests arriving from Lyon or Avignon typically spend languid afternoons exploring these narrow, time-suspended streets, best visited in spring or early autumn when Rhône Valley light is at its most golden.

Tain-l'Hermitage is the beating heart of the northern Rhône wine country, a compact town whose steeply terraced granite hill has yielded some of France's most majestic Syrahs and finest Marsannes since the Roman era. The revered Hermitage hill — its legend entwined with a thirteenth-century crusader hermit — rises directly behind the main street, and the great wine estates of Jaboulet, Chapoutier, and Ferraton offer some of the Loire Valley's most memorable cellar tastings. Autumn harvest season brings the vineyards to their most photogenic golden glory; spring and summer offer ideal touring weather along the Rhône cycling routes between vines and river.

Lyon sits at the confluence of the Rhône and the Saône — a geographic destiny that made it the capital of Roman Gaul, a Renaissance silk-trading powerhouse, and, by contemporary consensus, the undisputed gastronomic capital of France. The UNESCO-listed Vieux Lyon preserves Europe's finest concentration of Renaissance architecture, its labyrinthine traboules — secret passageways threading through courtyard after courtyard — offering endless discovery. Paul Bocuse's legacy lives on in the city's constellation of bouchons, where quenelles de brochet and tablier de sapeur are served with the straightforward confidence of a city that has never needed to prove its culinary supremacy. Lyon rewards a visit in any season, with the Festival of Lights in December being particularly magical.

Tournus is a captivating commune in eastern France, renowned for its rich history, stunning architecture, and exceptional culinary experiences. Must-do activities include exploring the Abbey of Saint-Philibert and indulging in local dishes like coq au vin. The best season to visit is spring or early autumn when the weather is mild and the local markets are brimming with fresh produce.

Birthplace of photography and gateway to Burgundy's finest vineyards, Chalon-sur-Saône is a Saône River gem that rewards those who linger beyond its famous streets. The Musée Nicéphore Niépce, housed in a riverside mansion, chronicles the invention of the medium that changed human perception forever, while the surrounding Côte Chalonnaise wine villages — Mercurey, Givry, Rully — offer some of Burgundy's most approachable yet complex Pinot Noirs. Visit in late summer or early autumn for harvest season, when the vineyards blush gold and local restaurants celebrate the new vintage.